Do You Need To Be Worried About Your pH?

here's a curious overlap in wellness between science and nature. No matter how fervent the desire for all-organic, preservative-free beauty, it still reassures many of us to have that hook of familiarity.

It's a strange dichotomy: as we've grown more obsessed with scientific, pH-optimised skincare, we're also likely stocking our trollies with organic, so-called "whole foods" in hopes of alkalising our bodies. But should we even be concerned about either? Here is what we find out from cosmetic biochemist and Elequra founder Nausheen Qureshi and nutritionists Dr Laura Thomas and Ian Marber to unpack the pH movement.

 

How does pH affect your skincare?

A reminder for anyone who feels it's been a while since chemistry lessons: the pH scale starts at zero and goes up to fourteen. The lower the number, the more acidic a substance is, with battery acid clocking in at zero, for example. "Your skin's natural pH is about 4.9 to 5.1," explained Qureshi. 

"Conditions like eczema and rosacea can alter your pH somewhat, as well as hormonal fluctuations." Generally speaking, you want to avoid large, frequent fluctuations in the pH of your skin which can result in inflammation, bumpy and dry skin and that "squeaky-clean" feeling some cleansers can leave you with. "Your skin naturally has a fairly acidic pH register, so anything too alkalising can cause dryness," added Qureshi.

So, how do you use this information when shopping for skincare? "Generally speaking, you actually want a fairly acidic cleanser to avoid dehydration. But a lot of surfactants, which make a product foam up, are alkaline. This is why you might be advised to use a toner after cleansing – to bring your pH back down to get it ready for active ingredients in serums," explained Qureshi. "It's really hard to make an acidic cleanser. With my Pure Balancing Cleanser it took a very long time, but I was determined."

Of course, there are exceptions to every rule, and not every foaming cleanser is overly alkaline, but an alcohol-free toner may be a helpful step after cleansing. "Your skin has what we refer to as a gradient after cleansing when it's better primed to absorbed active ingredients," added Qureshi. "It's about twenty minutes, and having your skin at the right, slightly acidic pH will help maximise that window. A gentle toner or something like my pH Boosting Mist will help the absorbency."

 

Percentage or pH?

Now your skin is primed and ready, what cocktail of serums should you load up on? It's common for brands to proudly declare the percentage of an active ingredient even in the name of a product, but that doesn't necessarily translate to the same strength on your skin. "Percentage isn't the be all and end all," explained Qureshi. "I often see certain serums or peels that boast a double-digit active strength, but the formulators may have added alkaline to make it easier for the skin to tolerate."

Some products state both their strength and pH - SkinCeuticals Glycolic 10 has 10% glycolic and a pH 3.5 - but not always. That's not to say a product with a high percentage of active ingredients will be ineffective - Qureshi suggested that if you're looking for Vitamin C to brighten the skin, look for it in an acidic solution, but if you're more looking for the antioxidant properties, a neutral solution wth encapsulated Vitamin C might be better.

 

Does your body need to be alkalised?

It's hard to pin-point exactly when the alkaline diet movement began – Marber said he'd observed it as early as the late nineties, Dr Thomas said she first heard of it in 2011 or thereabouts – but it's ebbed and flowed in popularity for years. "Unlike something like the Cabbage Soup Diet, it sounds just science-y enough to be true," explained Dr Thomas.

Devotees of the diet claim that certain foods are "acid-forming" within the body, and that sticking to a diet of so-called "alkalising" foods can ward off a myriad of health problems. "The foods that diet suggests are not necessarily bad," offered Marber. "It's a lot of fruit, vegetables and very little red meat. But this whole thing about 'acid-forming' is a fundamental misunderstanding of how the body works."

As Dr Thomas detailed, "Your body's normal pH is within a very tightly controlled range, and your lungs, gut, kidney and liver maintain that homeostatic balance. We all have an in-built buffer system that helps keep your pH within the acceptable healthy range." Of course, it is possible for blood to be too acidic, but acidosis is a very serious acute health conditions that often leads to hospitalisation. "I have heard of people using special strips to test their urine pH," added Marber. "It does provide some information, but that is a waste product from your body and not necessarily a reflection of your internal pH."

"Acid in your gut helps you digest your food, and also has an evolutionary antibacterial quality to protect you if you eat something a little funky," added Dr Thomas. Essentially, your body has it's own finely-tuned system for maintaining a healthy pH in every organ and in your blood. "Years of evolution has brought our bodies to where they are now," said Marber. "Your body will not fall apart if you eat something a bit 'acidic'."

Your skin may benefit from paying attention to pH where possible, but as for your body? Maintaining a balanced diet and healthy lifestyle – and perhaps trying to ease up the load on your liver somewhat – will usually be enough to maintain a healthy pH.

Credit: Vogue