Why You Should Ditch Foundation in Your 40s – and Other Make-up Rules for Every Age

 

Where do you stand on age-appropriate makeup? While it’s true that faces change with age, there are some things – the colour, the innovative textures and the lovely packaging – that needn’t be off limits at any age. And as makeup artist Ruby Hammer puts it, nothing steals joy faster than a mandate. “I truly believe we mustn’t take the pleasure out of makeup – it defeats the very purpose,” she points out. With that in mind, we asked five makeup artists to recommend the buys that

work best at every age.

In your 20s… it’s all about skin

Good makeup always starts with what’s underneath, but in your 20s, skin really is the thing, says Zoë Taylor. “We can thank Hailey Bieber for moving us away from a very matte, highly-contoured look and towards a bouncy, clean-looking finish where you can’t separate the skincare from the makeup.” This, says Taylor, is the time to try balmy, glossy formulas. “Play up the bounce in your skin. Then it’s about finding your identity, isn’t it, with an amazing eye or a gleaming blush.”

On the other hand, Caroline Barnes (who had acne in her 20s) makes a case for matte, adding that raised blemishes are accentuated by dewy, shiny bases. On the plus side, young skin can cope with thicker coverage that might look chalky later in life; she favours powder foundation applied carefully on top of textured areas with a fine brush. “You can’t make bumps disappear, but you can disguise the colour and irritation. Then chuck on a distracting glossy eye or a beautiful shiny lip, but avoid too much pink, which can play up the redness in your skin.”

In your 30s… I’m tired. You?

“I noticed my skin changing in my 30s; I think everyone does,” observes Caroline Barnes, adding that this is the decade of broken sleep and career ladders. “You might have young kids, or you’re challenged at work, so you’re probably thinking about a light reflective concealer, to brighten that undereye area.” From there, it’s about maintaining the freshness of your 20s, using colours that make eyes and teeth look whiter and brighter.

“Fresh pink lips, fresh pink cheeks or a hot pink, creamy blush is fantastic for that. Wear it right on the apples of your cheeks, just underneath the pupils, to keep that rounded, youthful look,” says Barnes. “If you have a bit more money, you might also feel it’s time to invest in some key pieces from brands such as Westman Atelier and Hourglass, with hybrid qualities that will nourish your skin as much as possible.”

In your 40s… putting the colour back

“If you drop anything in your 40s, drop foundation,” recommends Taylor. “Go for soft, skin-like concealers instead; you’ll have to top up during the day, because these textures don’t last, but that’s better than matte formulations that stick in fine lines.” For a soft-focus finish elsewhere, bronzer is your new best friend. “After concealer it’s all I wear,” says Taylor. “We lose so much pigment in our 40s; bronzer puts it back without overloading your skin.” Key zones are the edge of the face and over your neck; apply lightly with a large, fluffy brush and then move on to lips.

“Find a shade that’s close to your own. Matte is a good texture in your 40s because it looks so chic – as long as you find a formula that doesn’t feel dry and won’t feather.” Taylor’s final tip for this decade is a lip liner. “So important, for filling in the bits that have disappeared.”

In your 50s… let there be light

Think less, think smart and think light-reflective, says Lisa Eldridge. “You want to bounce glow back into your face with a low-key highlighter. Nothing glittery, just a gentle sheen on the top of your cheekbones and above the brows.” This is easier to map out, explains Eldridge, if you sit in front of a window with the sun coming in from above. “Turn your head from side to side and you’ll see where the light hits. That’s where the glow goes.”

Do that first, she advises, and then build the rest of your makeup around it – a sheer skin tint; some precision concealing on any sunspots; bronzer over jaw and forehead, and a soft cream blush. “It’s my patchworking technique, and it means you’ll never apply too much makeup in any one zone. As you get older, there’s nothing worse.”

Another vote for mid-life bronzing comes from Victoria Bond. “I love pale skin, but I tend to warm it up on anyone in their 50s.” She also introduces her mid-life clients to some easy sculpting techniques. “Noses should be left as they are, but you can put some shape back around your jaw and cheekbone, by drawing little vertical lines in a row, all the way along the edge of the bone and just underneath it, and then blending it out with a brush.”

In your 60s+… fresher, hotter, cooler

“At this point, it really depends on your hair,” says Barnes. “If you’ve let yours go silver, it’s time to move towards clearer colours. Nothing muddy, warm or golden; think fresher, cooler and hotter.” A sheered-out red blush is surprisingly flattering at any age, but particularly now, and it suits most skin tones (it’s the shade we naturally flush, after all). Pewter-toned eye shadows also work beautifully, says Barnes, and an opaque concealer is a must for tackling areas of uneven pigmentation. “If you even out any little bits of sun damage, you instantly look more put together.”

For Ruby Hammer, the advantage of hitting 60 is knowing what doesn’t suit you…but don’t let that make you overly cautious. “You’re not limited to neutrals, nor does it mean you can’t use shimmer. Technology has advanced so much, there are plenty of options that are perfectly appropriate. And if it doesn’t work, you can always wipe it off.” She likes foundations and concealers with hydrating properties, bounced over skin with a damp sponge, and conditioning mascaras and brow gels. “As lashes and brows become sparse with age, look for formulations that nourish as well as add definition.”