5 Skincare Trends You Should Leave In 2024, According To A Top Dermatologist

 

By now, you may have made some new year’s resolutions, promising to commit to certain new habits that will help rather than hinder you in 2025. But have you considered which habits you might want to leave behind? When it comes to skincare, there is a whole lot of misinformation out there, and Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at Self London, cautions against some of the trends that

blew up in 2024. Here they are:

Medical grade skincare

“The term ‘medical grade’ has become a popular phrase in skincare marketing, and suggests that anything with this label is stronger and/or clinically proven. However it’s largely a marketing construct with no medical or regulatory significance,” she says. “They do often contain higher concentrations of active ingredients, but this is simply a brand choice – not a guarantee of medical efficacy.”

That’s not to say brands that say they are medical grade are bad, but Dr Mahto recommends looking beyond the packaging to focus instead on ingredient quality and formulation. “Many over-the-counter products are just as effective – and sometimes better tolerated – than those labelled as medical grade. Skincare choices should be based on science, rather than buzzwords.”

“Botox in a bottle” formulas

With ingredients like argireline (a peptide which can help reduce fine lines) gaining prominence this year, Dr Mahto reminds us that sadly, you simply can’t expect Botox-like results from a skincare product. “Botox works by blocking the nerve signals to muscles, thereby reducing their ability to contract,” she explains. “This effect is not achievable through topical skincare alone.” It’s worth remembering when a brand promises a “Botox in a bottle” experience – it doesn’t actually exist, so don’t expect the world.

Retinoids for everyone

Shock horror! Most of us have been told that retinoids are the gold standard to treat all manner of different skin concerns, from acne to the ageing process, and it’s true that they can be incredibly effective. But as with all skincare, it’s not a one-size-fits-all situation. “Retinoids can be wonderful, but aren’t universally suitable,” says Dr Mahto. “I see many patients who feel pressured to use them after seeing skincare brands and influencers push this message on their social channels – many of these patients also experience irritation and discomfort when using them.” With plenty of other active ingredients on the market that can be used instead, make sure you listen to your skin.

Special offers on injectables

“Offering deals on injectables is not only unethical but it can also compromise patient safety,” says Dr Mahto, who expresses deep concern about what has become a real problem in the UK aesthetics industry. “Injectables are medical treatments that require careful consideration and skilled application, so patients should be wary of clinics that offer discounted injectables. It may indicate lower standards or an incentive-driven approach. Quality and safety should always be prioritised over cost.”

DIY sunscreen

This year saw instances of influencers – some with huge followings – advocating for “homemade sunscreen” this year, which did not go down well with Dr Mahto, nor any other skincare expert. “Homemade sunscreen is not only ineffective, it’s incredibly dangerous,” she says. “SPF formulations are incredibly complex and require precise formulation to ensure consistent protection. It’s your first line of defence against skin cancer and premature ageing – don’t compromise your health with DIY solutions.”

 

Vogue