To find out, I spoke with a professional nail technician, who broke down exactly what BIAB is, how it works, and what to look out for.
If you’ve been on nail insta lately, you’ve probably seen “BIAB” manicures taking over. The name stands for Builder In A Bottle, and it’s being called the perfect middle ground between gel polish and acrylics. It is stronger than gel, gentler than
acrylics, and with a glossy, natural finish that lasts for weeks. It promises stronger,But with every new beauty trend comes one big question: is it safe for
your nails?
To find out, I spoke with Faustina Martins, a professional nail
technician at
What
Is BIAB?
BIAB is a builder gel available in a
bottle. Unlike regular gel polish, which is fairly thin, BIAB is thicker,
self-levelling, and designed to build up a structured overlay on the natural
nail. It can also repair ridges, help weak or brittle nails, and sometimes be
used for short extensions.
It’s applied using techniques similar to gel polish (layers, drying under
UV/LED lamps), but more skill is required to ensure an even structure, proper
thickness, and smooth edges. The removal process is also more delicate than
with acrylics.
Is
BIAB Better Than Gel Polish and Acrylics?
BIAB tends to last longer than regular
gel polish, typically about 3-4 weeks, because of its thicker structure. It
resists lifting, chipping, or peeling more than standard gel nails. It
adds strength to
natural nails. The extra layer protects nails from everyday wear;
for weak or splitting nails, it’s often gentler than acrylics.
Acrylic nails usually involve more
aggressive filing, strong odours (from monomers), and heavier chemical
exposure. BIAB is lighter in smell and typically less harsh during both
application and removal.
When I asked five different ladies
about their experience with BIAB nails, they pretty much said the same thing:
it’s worth it.
One user wasn’t exactly thrilled about
her past experiences with gel or acrylic nails. They’d chip, fall off, and
sometimes even hurt. Plus, they’re at about the same price point as BIAB, yet
they left her natural nails weak and brittle, even when they seemed to grow a
bit. But ever since she switched to BIAB, she’s been hooked.
She’s had them on for over two months
now, and they’re still going strong. According to her, her friends who’ve tried
BIAB say the same thing: stronger nails, fewer breaks, and zero pain.
Another felt the same way. She says
she’s never going back to gel or acrylics because BIAB makes her natural nails
stronger and look effortlessly cute. She also loves how versatile they are. You
can trim them, start fresh, or let them grow out without the drama. In her
words, “I’m loving every bit of this BIAB nail journey.”
Is
BIAB Safe?
Although BIAB offers
benefits, some risks are important to understand. None are guaranteed, but poor
processes or frequent, careless use raise them.
BIAB formulas often contain acrylates
(like hydroxyethyl methacrylate). Some people are sensitive or allergic to
these, which can cause redness, itching, lifting of the nail, or more serious
dermatitis. If the product is applied to the surrounding ,
or if uncured gel remains, the risk increases.
Curing BIAB requires UV or LED lamps.
These lamps emit ultraviolet radiation, which is associated with risks of skin
ageing, DNA damage, and potentially increased cancer risk, especially with
frequent, repeated exposure over the years. Studies are somewhat mixed: risk is
generally considered low, but the cumulative effect isn’t fully known.
A literature review found that while ,
the carcinogenic risk from occasional use is low. Precautions like using
broad-spectrum sunscreen or protective gloves are recommended.
If the initial nail prep is aggressive
(over-filing), or if the BIAB is applied too thickly, with uneven edges, or
onto cuticle/skin, there can be lifting, trapped moisture, or injury on the
nail. Removal is critical: soaking off properly, not peeling or forcing it off,
and avoiding excessive filing. Improper removal can damage the nail plate
significantly.
How
to Make BIAB as Safe as Possible
Here are practical steps to reduce
risk:
- Choose a skilled technician who
uses good tools, has experience, and follows hygiene standards.
- Ensure proper nail prep,
including gentle filing, carefully pushing back cuticles, and cleaning and
dehydrating the natural nail before application.
- Use quality products: gels with fewer irritants;
ensure the BIAB is properly formulated. Avoid brands that are vague about
ingredients. Look for “free of” tags (HEMA-free, etc.), if you have
sensitivities.
- Protect from UV: use LED lamps if possible (they
cure faster and have lower UV exposure), apply sunscreen to hands
(broad-spectrum SPF >30) before lamp curing, or use fingerless UV
gloves.
- Don’t leave BIAB on indefinitely; infill or removal schedules can
help. Allow breaks between BIAB/applications to allow natural nails to
recover.
6. Proper removal involves using the soak-off method instead of
peeling, minimal filing, and safe use of acetone. Additionally, moisturise and
avoid damage.
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