Master the science of scent longevity
There’s something about catching a hint of someone’s perfume long after they’ve left. Maybe it’s the friend whose floral scent always seems to linger, or the coworker who somehow still smells amazing at 5 p.m. Sometimes, it seems like a blessing or a gift—I'm usually the girl whose fragrance seems to disappear by lunchtime, no matter how many spritzes I start with. And unless you're one of those people who gets a headache from perfume, you might want something with a little
more staying power.The truth is, making your scent endure isn’t just
about picking a long-lasting option: It’s chemistry. It’s timing. It’s even
about where you spray it. “Fragrance is where chemistry meets memory,” says
perfumer Richard
Rochon, founder of his eponymous luxury fragrance line. “The
goal isn’t to smell strong—it’s to leave a trail that feels effortless, like an
extension of you.”
Ahead, Rochon and other experts explain the simple steps I—and you—can
take to make fragrance last, from concentration and body chemistry to how and
when you apply it. Because when you understand the process, your scent is more
likely to go the distance.
What we mean by
'fragrance'
All scents begin the same way: a fragrance concentrate is created by
carefully balancing natural or synthetic aromatic compounds with alcohol and
sometimes water. “The main difference between fragrance types is concentration,
meaning how much of that concentrate is blended with the alcohol,” says Emilie Mascarell, fragrance and beauty
product developer. That concentration determines intensity, projection, and
longevity—in other words, how strong the scent is, how far it travels, and how
long it lasts.
Here’s a breakdown of the main types of fragrances for women, according to our
experts:
- Parfum/Extrait
de Parfum: At 25 to 40% fragrance concentrate, these are deep, rich, and
designed to last all day with just a dab.
- Eau de
Parfum: The most popular strength for its staying power (around 6 to 8
hours) without being overwhelming, an EDP is typically 15 to 25% fragrance
concentrate.
- Eau de
Toilette: EDTs are just 5 to 15% concentrate, with a light and fresh scent
that’s ideal for daytime or casual wear—especially for those who prefer
something more understated.
- Eau de Cologne: These are
subtle and more affordable than higher concentrations (just 2 to 5%
concentrate here) but require more frequent reapplication throughout the
day.
- Body
Mist: The most accessible entry into the category, these are just 1 to 3%
fragrance with a price tag to match. Ultra-light and great for
layering or a quick midday refresh.
While these are the most
common categories, Mascarell says fragrances aren’t strictly regulated. “It’s
not unusual to find something labeled ‘Eau de Parfum’ even when the
concentration is closer to an extract,” she says. Because of that, it’s not
always easy to compare fragrance quality across brands, says Nicole Eckels, CEO
and founder of Glasshouse Fragrances.
“Price isn’t always a marker of quality either,” she adds. “It’s more about
trusting the brand. Look for brands with a strong reputation, or shop at
reputable retailers that vet what they carry.”
And if you’re still unsure, she says you can often tell quality by how
the scent develops: “You can tell when something’s well made, because it
unfolds nicely. It doesn’t hit you all at once or smell synthetic or sharp.”
Scent won't stick?
Here's why
Fragrance molecules
evaporate at different rates based on factors like concentration and the
balance of raw materials. “It’s pure chemistry,” says Rochon. “The lighter,
more volatile top notes fade first; heavier materials like woods, musks, and
amber stay the longest.”
The unique chemistry of an individual’s skin matters, too. The heat from
your skin is what makes a fragrance develop and bloom, says Eckels. So you
might get very subtle differences from person to person. Other factors, like
skin type and diet play a small role, too. “Dry skin tends to absorb and lose
scent faster, while moisturised or oilier skin holds on longer,” says Rochon.
And if someone eats a lot of garlic or spices, those can come through the skin,
delicately affecting the fragrance, says Eckles.
Here's how to master
the spritz
If your scent seems to disappear too soon, it might not be the perfume’s
fault—or at least, not entirely. Some formulas fade faster by nature, but
smart application can make
whatever you’re wearing last noticeably longer.
1.
Start with hydrated skin. “Fragrance
binds better to moisture than dry skin,” says Rochon, noting that’s why some
people recommend using vaseline prior to application. His advice? Spritz right
after a shower when skin is still slightly damp.
2.
Layer. The best way to
extend longevity is to layer a fragrance, says Eckles. “Use a body lotion in
the same scent before spraying your perfume—it’s like using lip liner before
lipstick. When the top layer fades, there’s still something underneath to hold
it.”
2.
Spray from 6 to 8 inches away. This
ensures an even diffusion and avoids overloading one area, which can alter how
the perfume develops.
3.
Target pulse points. Spray
on pulse points such as wrists, neck, inner elbows, and even the back of the
knees, says Mascarell. These warm spots help the fragrance diffuse naturally as
your body heats up.
4.
Don’t rub. Yes, it’s
tempting, but rubbing breaks down delicate top notes and alters the structure
of the scent.
5.
Extend to hair and clothes. A
light mist over clothing or hair can help scent last longer, but keep some
distance to avoid staining fabrics or drying out strands.
And remember: technique isn’t the only factor in
longevity. Store your fragrance like you would skincare—away from heat,
humidity, and sunlight. “Light and temperature fluctuations can alter a
perfume’s composition over time,” says Eckles.
Perfume is part
science, part ritual
Once you understand the science—how fragrance concentration, body
chemistry, and skin moisture affect wear—and pair it with the ritual of
intentional application, any scent can work harder for you. Apply to
moisturised skin, target pulse points, and skip the wrist rub for a fragrance
that lasts and subtly evolves throughout the day.
Like a bouquet of fresh-cut flowers, you'll bloom beautifully throughout
the course of a day.
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