Your Anti-Aging Skin-Care Routine, Simplified

 

The right anti-aging skin-care routine isn’t necessarily the most complicated. When it comes to mature skin, “The best routine is consistent and balanced, protecting the skin in the morning and repairing it at night,” says Patricia Conrad, esthetician at The Spa at The Belgrove Resort & Spa in West Palm Beach, Florida.

According to the pros, a routine that protects and repairs starts with the basics—

including a gentle cleanser—and leaves room for targeted, active ingredients that don’t irritate the skin. Moisture is key, particularly for mature skin that’s prone to dryness, and SPF is a perennial must.

Though the steps are relatively simple, finding the right products requires a bit of finesse. Here, gentleness and efficacy go hand in hand, since skin becomes more prone to irritation as its barrier weakens over time.

Ahead, estheticians and board-certified dermatologists share the best practices–and products—for every step of an ideal anti-aging skin-care regime. (Plus, they reveal where to save, and where to go ahead and splurge.) Here’s to smooth, radiant skin ahead.

Start With a Gentle Cleanse

A good cleanse helps other products be more effective—and can also be cost-effective. “The most important thing to understand about this step is that it’s only designed to do one thing: prep your skin for the actives to follow,” says Dr. Pierre Peterson, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Golden State Dermatology in Thousand Oaks, California. “Don’t put too much effort, energy, or money into this step. A cleanser may have wonderful anti-aging ingredients, but they won’t be on your skin long enough to do any good.”

Of course, active ingredients will come into play later on, particularly with serums. But for this initial step, Dr. Peterson tells mature patients to find a formula that’s gentle, non-irritating, and—if needed—able to remove makeup. Dr. Peter Bittar, MD, a double-board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Miami Dermatology and Laser Institute, emphasizes the importance of fragrance-free cleansers. “Fragrances often irritate the skin, which can make it harder to use actives such as retinoids,” he says.

Finish Skin Prep With a Toner or Essence

After cleansing, a toning step can remove any leftover impurities from the pores and balance the skin’s pH level, while essences—which have a slightly thicker texture—tend to be more hydrating. “For aging skin, toners and essences should be alcohol-free and infused with soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid or peptides,” says Nikki Miller, professional esthetician and director of Kohler Waters Spa in Kohler, Wisconsin. “This helps prep the skin for better absorption of subsequent products.” She adds that the lightweight products can also plump the skin.

Use a Serum to Target Specific Signs of Aging

With the skin thoroughly prepped, it’s time to get active. “Serums are lightweight and designed to absorb deeply, delivering potent anti-aging actives where they’re needed most,” Dr. Mraz explains. According to Audrey Zmigrodski, licensed esthetician and director of Spa and Warm Springs Pools at The Omni Homestead Resort & Spa in Hot Springs, West Virginia, the best serums for mature skin contain ingredients that target concerns such as wrinkles, elasticity, and uneven tone. “Look for serums with retinol—or bakuchiol for sensitive skin—peptides, antioxidants, and niacinamide,” she says. “Apply the serum after toning and before moisturizer to maximize absorption.”

Because aging skin tends to have a more fragile skin barrier, making it particularly prone to irritation, Zmigrodski recommends “pulsing” serums. “Pulsing skin-care products refers to rotating certain active ingredients or products in and out of your routine, rather than using them consistently every day,” she says. “This will help minimize irritation, maintain skin balance, and enhance [the products’] effectiveness over time.” She typically recommends using a retinol serum two to three times a week, alternating it with serums focused on hydration or barrier repair.

Apply an Eye Cream (Without Tugging)

“The skin around the eyes is delicate, and typically shows the first signs of aging,” says Miller. “Choose eye creams with peptides or caffeine to reduce puffiness, firm the skin, and smooth fine lines.” Hydration is also key, she adds, and the ideal eye cream will have a rich yet non-irritating formula. Miller recommends applying eye cream after serum and before moisturizer, day and night—and going about it gently. “Tap gently with your ring finger to avoid pulling the delicate skin,” Zmigrodski instructs.

With Moisture, More Is More

“Moisturization is a crucial step in improving the vibrancy and health of mature skin,” Dr. Bittar says. “As we get older, our skin gets drier, which leads to a dull appearance.” He says that the best moisturizers for aging skin not only hydrate, but also include active ingredients—such as niacinamide, panthenol, or hyaluronic acid—that tend to be common signs of aging. And in this category, it’s okay to double dip.

“I often recommend investing in a moisturizer with built-in sunscreen to help simplify your morning regimen, and buying one without SPF for evening use,” Dr. Bittar says. According to Miller, night creams should focus on repair and regeneration, and the best ones help mimic the effects of a restful night’s sleep.

SPF Is a Daily Must

This last step is crucial. “Sunscreen is the single most important anti-aging product,” Dr. Mraz stresses. “It protects against UV rays that accelerate the breakdown of collagen and elastin.” As collagen and elastin break down, she says, the skin becomes prone to more visible wrinkles, increased skin laxity, and UV-induced hyperpigmentation.

Dr. Bittar often tells his patients that sunscreen is “a fountain of youth in a bottle.” Like most dermatologists, he says that a sunscreen with SPF 30 or more is ideal, as SPF 30 blocks 97% of UV light. But he stresses that reapplication is the key to efficacy for any sunscreen.

“What most people don’t realize is that sunscreen only lasts about two hours, so if you put on your sunscreen at 9 a.m., then go out to lunch at noon, then your morning application is no longer protecting you,” he notes.