Most of us are working from home these days, so that means a lot of makeup-less days—at least for me anyway. I'm not going anywhere, but I still want to put my best complexion forward just for my own self-confidence and, of course, those team Zoom calls. If you struggle with brown spots, hyperpigmentation and/or stubborn post-breakout marks like me, kojic acid may just be the answer to your prayers.
If you're asking yourself, "What is kojic acid?" right now, you're not alone. The internet is buzzing over whether or not this ingredient works and is safe to use, so we put together a comprehensive guide on everything you need to know before picking up a kojic acid-infused serum to include in your nightly regime. Read on to find out exactly what it is, how to use it, if your skin can benefit
from it, and what the experts are saying.What Is Kojic Acid?
Kojic acid
is a chemical derived from mushrooms, and can also be created during the sake
brewing process from fermented rice. Because of its ability to really penetrate
the layers of your skin and stop the production of melanin, kojic acid is
usually sought out as a spot-fading treatment, and is often considered a
less-aggressive answer to hydroquinone. According to Dr. Jennifer
MacGregor, a Board-Certified Dermatologist at Union Square Laser
Dermatology, it can be used as a skin brightener and even on produce to
prevent browning. "It is a popular skincare ingredient because it is a
well-known and studied inhibitor of tyrosinase (the melanin-forming enzyme) in
the skin.
Is It Safe?
Despite its
"acid" moniker, kojic acid is safe to use, though we wouldn't
recommend any of the products designed to completely lighten your complexion as
your overall skin tone shouldn't be tampered with; it will eventually shift
back to its natural state once you discontinue use, and doing so with excess
amounts of the ingredient can cause some serious irritation. Instead, you should
use kojic acid-infused products to fade discoloration that
wasn't originally on your skin, like age spots, sun spots, or those obnoxious post-breakout
marks.
"Kojic
acid has mild antioxidant, antimicrobial, and exfoliating properties," Dr.
MacGregor tells InStyle. "It's safe and well-tolerated on the
face and body even by the most sensitive skin types, so is a great option if
you don't want to use (or can't tolerate) ingredients like hydroquinone or
retinoids." She adds that a serum or pad infused with kojic acid can be
used once to twice a day, depending on the concentration of kojic acid and the
product's other ingredients.
Of course as with any product, there
is always risk of personal irritation or allergic reaction. Dr. MacGregor
stresses the importance of using a mineral sunscreen along with any kojic acid product
because, honestly, what good is a brightening cream if you just reverse the
treatment and allow sun spots to form? Plus, kojic acid is a mild exfoliant
meaning your skin can become more sensitive to the sun after using it.
Who Should Use Kojic Acid-Infused
Products?
If you have
a a tendency to have an uneven, pigmented complexion, kojic acid could be very
beneficial to you. "Kojic acid is a great ingredient to add for those
battling pigment of any kind," says Dr. MacGregor. "It works well on
pigmentation from sun-damage, melasma, or the common post-inflammatory
pigmentation, dark spots that occur after acne, bug bites, or injuries."
She adds that it could even improve under eye circles that are a result of
hyperpigmentation. (Though it won't do much for "puffiness, hollowing, or
thin skin with visible blood vessels.")
How Can I Incorporate It Into My
Routine?
"For
those with acne or melasma that tend to get brown spots from every little acne
bump or scratch, it's an easy ingredient to incorporate daily—usually as a
brightening pad in combination with other brighteners and antioxidants."
Of course it's best to consult dermatologist for which product and regimen is
best for your skin. Depending on your treatment of choice, kojic acid can be
used on your skin in a variety of forms—from potent serums, to one-and-done
face masks.
-Instyle
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